My husband and I went in July, 2007 to Germany on a boat called the Charlemagne, cruising on the Mosel River. We chose this particular itinerary to experience three different countries without packing and unpacking! We had never been abroad; in fact, this was the first flight I have taken as an adult and our first together.
We flew out of Chicago on a Thursday evening on a non-stop overnight flight to the Frankfurt Airport in Germany…
Frankfurt, Germany
After surviving the flight, which was free of any problems anticipated, we checked into the Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof Hotel which in itself was completely luxurious and posh with its figures and structure filled with history. We couldn’t ask for more in terms of comfort and old world charm.
We settled into our room, then decided to explore Frankfurt on our own and found a great little tavern not far from the hotel where we met an outgoing barkeep who spoke English with ease, and told us of the happenings in Frankfurt. We were instantly comfortable with her friendliness. Tom decided while we were in Frankfurt, this would be "our" place.
Day 1, Saturday - The next day we were met in the lobby of the hotel by our guide Solveig and taken by minibus to the barge in Metz, France. Here we were introduced to the other cruisers ranging from a set of grandparents to their three teenage granddaughters - we weren't the youngest on the barge! There were 26 passengers in total, many being retired couples and as we learned avid travellers. Kristof the barge manager and the rest of the crew were on board the Charlemagne to greet us with hors d'oeuvres and a champagne toast, followed by our first dinner by Chef Mario who came out to introduce each meal and took pictures of guests enjoying it! Julien, our wine connoisseur was quite knowledgeable in the regional wines served and made sure it continued to flow as long as the meal...by the end of the week, he knew who liked the white more and who liked the red. By the time dinner came, the conversations came easier as we became more acquainted with the other guests and found despite our age difference, we related to each other on another level.Day 2, Sunday: Metz, France
This morning we awoke extra early for some reason, whether it was the excitement of being in Europe or adjustment to the time zones, we were up well before 6am and the wonderful staff was already waiting in the dining area with coffee and breakfast offerings.
Our first excursion was into a small town in France called Metz where we saw La Cathedrale Saint-Etienne, a 12th Century cathedral which boasts being the tallest in France. Our passionate local guide described that it was also battleground used in WWII and the building still had the war wounds to prove it. As we walked and took in the beauty of the small town with it's winding pathways and gardens along the river, we came upon the Place de la Comedie, said to be the oldest theatre in France that still operates as such.
We used our free time in Metz to see some shops and meander down the cobblestone streets, meeting back on the Charlemagne for lunch and the privilege of meeting owner John Senior. Our first afternoon cruise down the Mosel River was on to our next destination of Remich about a half hour outside of Luxembourg. We were able to relax in Remich, becoming closer with cruisers with whom the conversations were becoming sincere and more personal.
Day 3, Monday: Luxembourg
This mornings excursion included a short ride by minibus to Luxembourg. Seemingly rich with tradition and history, Luxembourg holds one of many Notre-Dame Cathedrals which we had the priviledge of entering during a mass to see the amazing stained glass windows behind the golden alter.
Where we stood close to the heart of Luxembourg to view the Pont Grand Duc Adolphe, an alluring monumental double arched bridge, was an interesting valleylike area with multiple tiers we had to explore. Luxembourg also boasted a square in the middle bigger than that in Metz, with many shops and eateries to choose from. After meeting back on the barge for lunch, Mario invited me into his kitchen to help with the dessert for tonights dinner. He had invited someone in each day and gave credit to whoever his assistant was that day when he introduced the dish they helped with. In the midst of all this "work" in the kitchen we enjoy another afternoon cruise into our next country to explore - Germany.Day 4, Tuesday: Trier, Germany
This was by far the most interesting city for me just because there was so many things to do and see! We were given the choice of riding bikes or the minibus from our mooring point to the city of Trier, one of Germany's oldest cities, which presented itself on first impression with the Porta Nigra, or the Black Gate. This was the magnificent the leadway to the main Market of Trier or Hauptmarkt which was by far the biggest and most impressively colorful square for shops and people-watching. It felt almost surreal like we were standing on the set of a movie. 
After a short tour of the market, we were led to the Dom St. Peter, built upon ruins of a 4th Century church. We also had free time in the Hauptmarkt to shop and sitesee before being taken back to the barge for lunch and our afternoon cruise. Being that my husband rode a bike and I took the minibus, we each had our own personal experience in this city and it was great to compare stories and learn that we just missed each other in the square! This really was a populated and modern city, (including many popular clothing stores and a McDonald's) despite the fact that some of the buildings predated Roman times. It was beyond my comprehension to see it all in one square! We enjoyed lunch on the barge and after seeing some of the prettiest scenery of our route on the Mosel River, we moor in Berkastel-Kues which to me was the epitomy of a little German town with its cobblestone streets and half timbered houses, each with their own touches of alluring flowers. With its narrow streets, it was hard to tell what was drivable and where we might meet up with a car.
We were given the reins on whatever we chose to do here as Kristof gave us a brief history and a suggested time to be back on the barge. After taking a jaunt together and talking to our children for the first time since being in Europe, it was obvious even to our new friends that we felt much more at ease. Tom and I split up, him going off with the guys for a German beer and me shopping with a couple of ladies for souvenirs.Day 5, Wednesday: Cochem
We cruised our morning away, having lunch while cruising and spending time on the sundeck to take in the surprisingly many vineyards of Germany.
Early afternoon we came around a bend to find the breathtaking castle of Reichsburg Cochem which provoked everyone on deck to start singing "When you wish Upon a Star". We treked our way up and payed a small fee to tour this amazing 11th Century castle which really dominates the town with its towering majestic presence.
This was also the Fourth of July which was a bit odd not to have it be celebrated with fireworks, but as all the guests on board were American, we sang the Star Spangled Banner before dinner and after the crew brought out a sparkling dessert.
They announced that tonight we would have a host from a local winery come onboard and treat us to a winetasting. It was interesting learning about all the local wines from the area and the difference between them. We were able to purchase a bottle of Spatlese from Cochem and another couple bought us a bottle which we were able to fit nicely in our suitcase for the trip home. I think this was our latest night as we played games with our fellow cruisers and chatted with the crew until well after midnight.
Day 6, Friday: Koblenz
We cruised our way this morning to the point where the Mosel River meets the Rhine River - Koblenz, Germany - home of the Kaiser Wilhelm I Monument, the only place we saw an American Flag. Flags from all different countries waved here as it was seen as a sign of friendship and camaraderie. This city was a great place for our last walking tour and loads of free time afterward to admire the many statuesque fountains and incredible mosaic buildings, which seemed to appear around every corner and in crannies unexpected.
There was a great mural on a building accross the street from where we moored that really looked like a scene from a quaint cafe in town - it was hard to tell where the actual stone from the building ended and the painting began. After having lunch on the barge, we were able to peruse the shops in town, have a leisurely walk, or take a bike ride along the shore until it was time for the Captain's Farewell dinner later that evening. It was great to have the Captain and staff sit at our table to commemorate our truly extraordinary week on the Mosel River. I must admit it made me misty eyed to think that this awe-inspiring experience was coming to an end. There were many pictures taken and hugs shared before turning in as it seemed we had made some friendships that would last long after our journey would reach its finale.
Day 7, Saturday, Another Great Day in Frankfurt
We packed up after breakfast and were chauffeured back to the Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof where we stayed another night in Frankfurt before flying back to the U.S. We did end up going back to "our" place to see if our new German friend was working again and to our delight she was. We thanked her for being so kind that first day and she decided to take us for a tour of Frankfurt which we would not have otherwise seen. We stayed out late our last night in Europe I think in the hopes that it would not end. To say that this trip exceded any expectations we had would be an understatement (considering we really had no idea what to expect). Any aprehensions we had were left back on day one when the staff of the Charlemagne set us at ease with their professional yet personal way of treating their guests. We felt like royalty throughout the cruise and would definitely recommend this romantic trip. In fact we would do it again in a heartbeat!
