By Ellen Sack, The Barge Lady Herself
Sunday – Paris Party Cruise
My husband and I boarded NOUVELLE ETOILE moored in central Paris, near the Opera Bastille.
After being introduced to the crew – which included Dutch owners Jan and Diana Meijer; Chef Richard, whose cuisine I had enjoyed on other barges; Guide Thomas from Belgium and Hostess Marte from Poland – we quickly assembled for our private cruise through the heart of Paris. Thomas joined us on deck to point out such monuments as Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower – but my interest was drawn to the Parisians who flocked to the Seine. They frolicked at the “Paris Plage,” an artificial Seine-side beach; there was a serious group learning to tango; families picnicked, musicians gave impromptu concerts, and lovers strolled hand in hand.
After a two hour cruise, we returned to the harbor and our first gourmet dinner. The evening began with divine foie gras appetizers and drinks on deck. Although we were just beginning to get to know our fellow guests, our first evening together was an early one.
Monday – From City to Countryside: A Day of Contrasts
Captain Jan was in his wheelhouse promptly at 8:00am to begin the cruise out of Paris to our mooring in Meaux . I was also at work: enjoying my usual barging breakfast of bakery-fresh chocolate croissants!
In contrast to yesterday’s party, we now observed the “back to work” side of Paris! We cruised past office complexes, large apartment buildings, even industrial sites. Diana came out and drew our attention to a water-taxi taking commuters to work – while a Metro train passed on the bridge overhead. However, within 90 minutes we were in suburban Paris and then very quickly on the bucolic River Marne. Riverside towns and mansions floated by as the scene became increasingly rural.
After a buffet lunch on deck, we got off at a lock and were driven by Thomas to Chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte, a vast complex built by Nicolas Fouquet, Finance minister of King Louis XIV. Fate was not kind to Mr. Fouquet – he was imprisoned after he invited the king to his chateau – warming! Using the same architects and garden designer, the king then built Versailles, an even grander version of Vaux-le-Vicomte!
Upon our return, Jan and Diana were pouring drinks behind the bar. Our group was champagne lovers, a happy coincidence given the route! Over another delicious dinner, we continued to have fun with our fellow passengers.
Sunday – Paris Party Cruise
My husband and I boarded NOUVELLE ETOILE moored in central Paris, near the Opera Bastille.
After being introduced to the crew – which included Dutch owners Jan and Diana Meijer; Chef Richard, whose cuisine I had enjoyed on other barges; Guide Thomas from Belgium and Hostess Marte from Poland – we quickly assembled for our private cruise through the heart of Paris. Thomas joined us on deck to point out such monuments as Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower – but my interest was drawn to the Parisians who flocked to the Seine. They frolicked at the “Paris Plage,” an artificial Seine-side beach; there was a serious group learning to tango; families picnicked, musicians gave impromptu concerts, and lovers strolled hand in hand.After a two hour cruise, we returned to the harbor and our first gourmet dinner. The evening began with divine foie gras appetizers and drinks on deck. Although we were just beginning to get to know our fellow guests, our first evening together was an early one.
Monday – From City to Countryside: A Day of Contrasts
Captain Jan was in his wheelhouse promptly at 8:00am to begin the cruise out of Paris to our mooring in Meaux . I was also at work: enjoying my usual barging breakfast of bakery-fresh chocolate croissants!
In contrast to yesterday’s party, we now observed the “back to work” side of Paris! We cruised past office complexes, large apartment buildings, even industrial sites. Diana came out and drew our attention to a water-taxi taking commuters to work – while a Metro train passed on the bridge overhead. However, within 90 minutes we were in suburban Paris and then very quickly on the bucolic River Marne. Riverside towns and mansions floated by as the scene became increasingly rural.
After a buffet lunch on deck, we got off at a lock and were driven by Thomas to Chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte, a vast complex built by Nicolas Fouquet, Finance minister of King Louis XIV. Fate was not kind to Mr. Fouquet – he was imprisoned after he invited the king to his chateau – warming! Using the same architects and garden designer, the king then built Versailles, an even grander version of Vaux-le-Vicomte!
Upon our return, Jan and Diana were pouring drinks behind the bar. Our group was champagne lovers, a happy coincidence given the route! Over another delicious dinner, we continued to have fun with our fellow passengers.
They were John and Sandy, celebrating their 50th anniversary in the company of their daughter Melinda and son-in-law Jim who were celebrating their 20th anniversary. Typical of barge guests, they had traveled extensively and were knowledgeable about food and wine. Our other guest Jean had also traveled the world, including several other barge cruises.Another early-to-bed evening showed that our congenial group was there to relax.
Tuesday – Brie Cheese and a Gorgeous Cruise
We woke up to more village-baked croissants, as well as the regular breakfast buffet of fresh fruit, cereals, and yogurts. Also on tap was the Chef’s daily hot special, which today was miniature Dutch pancakes. Our morning excursion was a substitute for the usually-scheduled visit to a farmer who produces Brie cheese. (Mon Dieu – the farmer was on vacation – after all, we are in France!)
Instead, we explored Meaux, which unlike many area towns was undamaged in both World Wars. After enjoying the local market and a Brie-tasting, we were treated to a fascinating tour of the Gothic cathedral, with its still-extant outbuildings and pristine garden. Our local guide explained that in the Middle Ages, simultaneous masses were held in every corner and that congregants worshiped with their dogs, cats and livestock in tow!Upon return Captain Meijer began to cruise. As we lazed on deck, heavily-wooded countryside floated past. Adorable villages hugged the shore, fields were visible through the trees and patient fishermen waved as we passed. Tonight’s mooring was in the deep countryside – next to a fenced-in pasture. Amazingly, about a dozen horses ambled over to welcome us!
Wednesday – Champagne-Tasting and Chocolate Mousse!
The day began with our first champagne visit – to Fallet Dart, a small and family-run farm.
Our charming hostess was Francine Fallet Dart. The farm produces 200,000 bottles yearly, most of which is sold in France – including to Nouvelle Etoile which offered their delightful bubbly all week! We were shown the old presses (which brought to mind Lucy Ricardo maniacally stomping grapes!), then the modern technology by which the champagne is produced, and finally, a walk among the vines, which had grown to full size only since early March. After we tasted several Fallet Dart champagnes, our hostess discussed the business, which has been in their family for generations! A remarkable glimpse into the world of small champagne producers – and one which provided a good background for tomorrow’s tour of Moet et Chandon.
We returned to lunch on deck and the afternoon cruise to Chateau Thierry through a gorgeous landscape of villages, vineyards, pastures, and forests. Even a late-afternoon excursion to nearby World War I battlefields, cemetery, and monuments could not quench our good cheer. Our delicious dinner was capped by a chocolate mousse so divine that I asked for seconds – and was allowed to lick the bowl, too!Thursday – The Contrast of Moet et Chandon
Our group was becoming so comfortable that we agreed to a “bathrobes at breakfast” dress code. We spent the morning on deck as Captain Meijer cruised through the most outstanding scenery of the week. Vineyards, fields and farmhouses clung to distant hills, while closer in, villages and gardens lined the shore. A light breeze and the chirping of birds added to our pleasure as scenes right out of an Impressionist painting drifted by.
After mooring at the village of Damery and lunch aboard, we departed for our visit to Moet et Chandon in Epernay, another family-owned champagne house but a great contrast to Fallet Dart. Begun in 1793, Moet et Chandon was characterized from the beginning by international markets and high-level contacts (Madame Pompadour imbibed their bubbly, Napoleon and Josephine stayed in a house built for them in the Moet et Chandon complex).
We toured the cellars in which one billion bottles are stored in eighteen miles of tunnels! Sixty million bottles yearly are sold worldwide. Our welcome (which included champagne tasting) by a young British guide was professional but warm – This is an international operation for which tours are given in many languages. There was a great deal to talk about at dinner that night!Friday – In Reims, Our Best Day Yet
The day began with an optional excursion to the tiny church of Dom Perignon, known as the inventor of champagne. We slept in, however, and arrived on deck in late morning. Jan had taken a detour along an adjacent canal, and we were floating in a silent world – but for Diana clipping herbs from the on-deck garden and then setting the table for lunch. Every day we were served a buffet lunch of homemade soup or quiche and a selection of pates, breads, salads, cheeses and fruit. Today’s soup was of cream of mushroom flavored with cognac and truffle shavings – absolutely divine!
After arriving at our last mooring in Cumiers, Thomas then drove us into Reims for what was easily our most interesting day.
Thomas speaks five languages and has an advanced degree in European history; a background very helpful in Reims. We first visited the Musse de la Reddition, which in World War II housed General Eisenhower’s supreme headquarters. We toured the War Room (the original maps and charts still up on the walls) where the first unconditional surrender of the Third Reich took place in May 8, 1945. We then drove back to the center of Reims and the great Reims Cathedral, even larger than Notre Dame in Paris and where many French Kings were crowned. One could imagine these coronations in this soaring structure made even more beautiful by the large stained-glass windows.That night, we were thrilled that Jan and Diana presided at dinner made festive by decorations and a special “anniversary cake” brought out by Chef Richard. Our cruise on Nouvelle Etoile ended in style.
Saturday – A Sad Farewell
We departed at 9:00am, arriving back into Paris at noon. Our adventure was over, but the memories will linger.
Ellen with her husband, Nick
